Fish Sauce Taste Off

When I was in Singapore last month, food expert Christopher Tan (foodfella.com) and I had a long conversation about different kinds of fish sauces. I'd tasted it in a number of dishes in Singapore and was surprised to see it so present in the food. Yes, the beloved Viet condiment is used in many cuisines, and it's just not in that of Vietnam, Thailand and the Philippines.  I mentioned that Knorr has been buying and bottling tons of nuoc mam fish sauce from Phu Quoc island off the coast of Vietnam -- where the best fish sauce is made. (Okay, I'm biased!) Chris, who has a well-tuned palate and amazing passion for food, said he was preparing for a fish sauce tasting in Singapore and would get some.

In preparation for the event, Chris asked me to decipher this fish sauce label from a Knorr bottle. The label basically touts it's purity and well-balanced flavors -- a lot like a fine wine. It also says to users that it's just for dipping sauces and table uses. It's too good to be cooked with. The price is rather low -- 12,000 Vietnamese Dong (75 cents), which is probably for one of the small tableside-sized bottles. Click on the thumbnail image to view a larger one.

So how did the Vietnamese fish sauce stand up the others? Chris just sent these remarks and  results:

China - Swee Huat Yu Lu from Shantou
Very salty, otherwise unremarkable. A bland fish sauce more suited to cooking or adjusting the seasoning of a sauce/gravy with, or for light dips.

The Philippines - Florence Patis
Salty flavour, though aroma has slight sweetness. Very simple taste. Very short aftertaste has a slight flatness from sodium benzoate.

Thailand - Tiparos nam pla
Both sweet and salty in the initial taste - it contains added sugar - but overall much better balanced than the above two sauces, with stronger and more rounded anchovy notes.

Vietnam - Thanh Ha Chanh Hieu Phu Quoc nuoc mam, 40 Dam
Easily the most complex of all the sauces we tasted. Beautiful colour. The salt hits you first, but then the fish flavours come forward. Rich and smooth feel in the mouth.

Vietnam - Knorr Nuoc Mam Cham
A lot of people liked this. Like a sweeter version of the Thanh Ha, and to me even oilier on the lips. Long aftertaste. Would be peerless as a dipping sauce base.

Myanmar - Fish Sauce (label's all in Burmese, but there's a prawn-shaped logo on it, so maybe prawn brand?)
Very interesting - earthy, mushroomy notes in its aroma, and a murky cola colour, but the taste, though salty, was quite mild, with some of the funky, leaf-mould nuances that you taste in some Burmese dishes. Would work well in braised dishes containing mushrooms, or in claypot rice, I'd wager.

Korea - Sandlance Fish Aekjeot (label is totally in Korean, so don't know the brand name)
Meant primarily for making kimchi, apparently. This had good colour and was very smooth, but it smelt sulphurous, like pungent salted-egg yolks, and hence was almost universally face-wrinkling.

I've done personal tastings myself but not for a crowd. Sounds like fun! If any of you are tasting new kinds of fish sauce, let us know!

Comments

[Nate]

Do they sell fish sauce from Phu Quoc around here? I always prefer to buy the Three Crabs brand from Thailand. I use it in Thai Beef Salad. It's so addictive!

http://chezannies.blogspot.com/2007/07/thai-beef-salad.html

[White On Rice Couple]

Fish sauce wars, love it! I take the Viet nuoc mam battle straight to the source- Viet home cooks! My nail salon staff and I have been battling it out for years and it's so much fun. Their experienced palettes are some of the best sources of information, inspiration and insight into nuoc man flavors and which one makes their cooking stand out - and believe me, each of them thinks their cooking is the "stand out" amongst the rest! There's family pride for ya!
After years of jousting (over 15 botttles and 20 opinions) four brands typically get the highest praises.

Here they are, in no particular order:
1.Three Crabs Brand: Nicely balanced with salty/sweet notes and easiest to eat if you need one to eat straight from the bottle. Not too heavy on the anchovy. Some prefer a nuoc man with more depth, heavy flavor for cooking , thus saving Three Crabs for lighter, vegetable and soup dishes. Several of my Northern cooks prefer something less sweet, more salty.

2.Phu Quoc Flying Lion & Lady Brand - Both have about equal depth and flavor and slightly higher on the salt content, allowing the cook bring sweetness to their dish with other ingredients. These have stronger, bolder flavors that might be too forward for a nuoc mam newbie to dip straight from the bottle.

3.One Crab Brand - A agreeable favorite by all of us-the most deep, rich, but balanced nuoc mam for cooking. I'm pleased that the depth of flavor of this brand is not one that is harsh or sharp, but rather, smooth and flavorful that cooks up beautifully when added to meat and grilled dishes. Some prefer a bold and hearty sauce for dipping, this is it.

A great insight into these tests was brought up my many ladies on my staff - they use and stick to a sauce that their family has used because of tradition. It's not that they feel that their sauce is superior, but because it's what they are most familiar with. They are brand loyal,once they like one sauce, they stick to it....like white on rice (hah! sorry, I just had to throw that one in there Andrea) :)

IMHO- There are so many Vietnamese fish sauce brands out there and many are so similar that I think everyones cooking style can change their fish sauce of preference to be more like other kinds. If you're heavy handed on the sugar, the complexity of the sauce changes considerably. If you're inclined to using more limes, or chili's, the acidity and heat can add different dimensions to even the most mild of nuoc mam.

What do I use? There are 8 bottles in my pantry, all for different purposes and palettes (depending on who I'm cooking for). I generally reach for my family favorite ,the Phu Quoc Flying Lion brand. It's a good working medium that possesses an overall balance of flavors that can be used in different dishes.
Besides, it's also about 60 cents cheaper per bottle than higher priced ones that taste the same. I put those savings toward my gas tank!

[Marvin]

I actually use Tiparos in my Filipino cooking not because of flavor, but because of convenience--I like how the Tiparos bottle has a squirt top for easy dispensing. In addition to the Tiparos, I also have a Filipino brand in my cupboard, although I forget the brand name. I'll have to do a taste test of the two and see if I can notice a difference.

[Andrea Nguyen]

My friends, Phu Quoc Flying Lion is just slightly more intense than 3 Crabs. Viet Huong makes both. I cook with the 3 Crabs for consistency and because it's generally easier to obtain than Phu Quoc Flying Lion.

WORC, How do you to through 8 bottles? Geeze woman. I'd love to hear the conversation at the nail salon!

Marvin, no patis for you? I'd love to get your take. Do let us know after you've done your personal tasting.

[double0]

Where can I purchase some of these sauces in NJ, USA.

[Josh]

I have to disagree with the Thai fish sauce selection. Tiparos is dark, stinky, sweet, and heavy, suitable only for cooking strong-flavored dishes. For the best quality Thai fish sauce, try either Oyster or Squid brand, both of which are very light and clear, and without too much stink (although if you're cooking, expect a short blast of it when it hits the pan, as you would with any fish sauce). I've never used Viet fish sauce because of my brand loyalties; what Viet sauce would be comparable to my Thai favorites?

[Vietcook]

My mom and family like the one crab brand better. It can be used straight out of bottle. We really like the taste of it. We used to like the three crab brand but they are too salty now.

[mike]

This might horrify some of you but I drink fish sauce straight from the bottle. I usually pour it into a spoon before I drink it but sometimes, it's straight from the bottle.

Then again, I'm the guy who eats salt for fun.

[Andrea Nguyen]

Ah, drinking it straight. My brother tried that when he was a kid and we lived in Vietnam still and boy did he get sick! He probably drank too much. Then there was the time he ate 10 salted chicken eggs...

I'm a walking salt lick so I appreciate your fondness for nuoc mam, Nate!

[Andrea Nguyen]

Ah, drinking it straight. My brother tried that when he was a kid and we lived in Vietnam still and boy did he get sick! He probably drank too much. Then there was the time he ate 10 salted chicken eggs...

I'm a walking salt lick so I appreciate your fondness for nuoc mam, Mike!

[steamy kitchen]

I like Three Crabs brand because the only other alternative is the Squid brand here in my markets.

Fish Sauce Wars sounds fun!

[Phil]

I use Three Crabs brand for Vietnamese, mainly because my Vietnamese friends tell me it's the best. It's definitely the most expensive here in Australia. A personal favourite of mine to make is the steamed Vietnamese beef pate!

For Thai, I generally use Golden Boy, because the forums I visit have the consensus that it's best (for Thai).

BTW, I've found that a nice shortcut for nuoc cham is to make the basic sauce in litre (quart) lots and keep it in the fridge. i.e. Get the balance of fisk sauce, sugar, water and lime juice right for storage, then add the fresh chilli and/or grated carrot to the serving dish while it's warming to room temperature.

[Phil]

I use Three Crabs brand for Vietnamese, mainly because my Vietnamese friends tell me it's the best. It's definitely the most expensive here in Australia. A personal favourite of mine to make is the steamed Vietnamese beef pate!

For Thai, I generally use Golden Boy, because the forums I visit have the consensus that it's best (for Thai).

BTW, I've found that a nice shortcut for nuoc cham is to make the basic sauce in litre (quart) lots and keep it in the fridge. i.e. Get the balance of fisk sauce, sugar, water and lime juice right for storage, then add the fresh chilli and/or grated carrot to the serving dish while it's warming to room temperature.

[Diane]

I like Golden Boy (from Thailand) quite a lot. I tried 3 Crabs and didn't like it quite as much as the Thai fish sauce, but maybe I should compare them side by side. Can you get "One Crab" here in the US? I haven't seen it.