Vietnamese Coconut Waffles

When I go to the Grand Century Mall, the sweet, coconut-ty fragrance of baking waffles often beckons me to the bakery at the front of the shopping center, located at Story and McLaughlin, the heart of the Vietnamese-American community in San Jose, California. A young woman usually stands by the electric Belgian waffle iron and quietly pours the batter in, waits for them to cook and then gracefully lifts them out of the iron. They briefly cool and then are sold to some lucky patron eagerly standing by. 

Unlike American waffles, Vietnamese waffles are not eaten with syrup. (Where would you find maple syrup in Vietnam?(!)) Rather, they're enjoyed out of hand like a large, lightly sweet cookie that's crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.  You could say that Vietnamese waffles are more like thick versions of Italian pizzelle cookies, which thin and crisp. However, pizzelle-like cookies are also made in Vietnam, so maybe it's better to just give these waffles their own separate category.

Note that in the U.S., electric waffle irons are used whereas in Vietnam, street vendors employ hand-held cast iron molds  that cook over a charcoal brazier. The vendors sit on a small stool on the sidewalk and make up their treat.

I never thought of making Vietnamese waffles at home  until Jason emailed asking for a recipe. This led to a small binge (are there such things as 'small' binges?) of waffle making and eating in the past few days. I fed them to unsuspecting dinner guests for dessert and my husband and I snacked on them too. There were lots leftover -- it's hard for me to throw away food, even batches that don't work out -- so I froze them for a Vietnamese version of  "L'eggo my Eggo."   (That's a phrase from old Eggo waffle commercials!)

Through several trials, I discovered that whipping up the egg white, which is easiest and fastest with a hand-held electric mixer, yields a thick batter and lighter texture. For a leavening, either baking soda and cream of tartar or baking powder may be used. Some people argue that the soda and cream of tartar yield a crispier texture, but I'm on the fence on that one. The reheat perfectly and actually crisp even more.

Makes 3 or 4, depending on size of waffle iron

1 scant cup bleached, all-purpose flour
7 to 8 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar, or 1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg, separated
1 cup coconut milk, Chaokoh or Mae Ploy brand preferred
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla or pandan (la dua) extract

1. Heat the waffle iron and have an electric mixer handy. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, cornstarch, salt, soda and cream of tartar (or baking powder). Use the whisk to combine the egg yolk, coconut milk, butter, and extract of choice.

2. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and use a rubber spatula to gently stir. Switch to a folding motion toward the end to incorporate all the flour. If the resulting batter looks lumpy, that's okay. Expect the batter to be thick. Avoid over-stirring, lest the batter becomes over worked and yields a chewy, tough waffle. Set aside momentarily

3. Use the electric mixer to beat the egg white for about 1 minute, or until it holds a 1 ½-inch peak. (See photo.) It will look solid white. Use the rubber spatula to gently fold in the egg white.

4. Spread a decent amount of batter onto the waffle iron, stopping short of the far outer edges since the batter will spread once the top is lowered. (I often don't fill up all the holes and let gravity distribute the waffle.) Cook the waffle until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Darker waffles will be crisper (and stay crisper) than lighter ones. Aim for medium-brown, not light tan.

5. To remove the waffle, I use a pair of bamboo chopsticks to pry and lift the waffle from the iron. Place the waffle (which will be slightly soft) onto a cooling rack, where it will crisp up. Break up the waffle and enjoy warm. They'll soften as they sit but may be reheated to a crisp in the toaster oven.

Note: These waffles may be cooked beforehand, store in a plastic zip-top bag, and reheated in at 350F toaster oven until warm and crisp. They freeze well too.

Related links:

• Images of a waffle vendor in Vietnam (Vietstuff blog)
• Pizzelle molds and recipe  (Fantes.com)

Comments

[Rosa]

Very interesting! I love waffles as well as coconut milk and I bet this version tastes wonderful!

Cheers,

Rosa

[Andrea Nguyen]

They're a nice little sweet treat that you can whip up with readily available ingredients. And, they smell soooo good as they cook.

[kate]

These sound delicious! I am going to try them, since I am a complete waffle nut!

[Andrea Nguyen]

Kate, let me know your thoughts. It's funny that they're eaten more as a cookie than an American-style waffle with syrup.

[Annie]

Thank you for the recipe. I just made up a batch after reading your post. I find that they do not crisp up enough though. I really like my waffles to be more light and crispy. However, the flavor was really good and my whole family enjoyed them. I doubled the batch and still have some sitting in the freezer. I'm going to try again using baking powder to see if that makes any difference.

[Andrea Nguyen]

Hi Annie, Thanks for the feedback. Maybe a bit more leavener would do the trick to get a lighter texture for you. Waffles do soften as the sit so try heating them up in the oven or toaster oven. They'll crisp up. Glad you liked the flavor!

[Karen]

For those who would like a little snack once in a while without making a big batch (or does not own a nice deep waffle maker), there's a vender at the Valley Fair/Westfield Shopping Center as well. It's located downstairs outside California Pizza Kitchen -- the Crepe station. Yumm! They heat up great the next day in the toaster oven.

[Sophia]

Hi Andrea, do you think I can make a large batch and leave it in the fridge? Then when guests want to eat it, we can just pour the batter into the waffle maker and make it fresh. I want to do this for my 4th of July party and I don't want to make a bunch ahead of time and freeze it. I would rather leave the batter in the fridge overnight and let guests make the waffles themselves during the party. Plus it will be fun for the kids.

[Janie]

This looks like an absolutely amazing recipe. I've been looking for a new way to make waffles and I'm definitely going to give this a try. What kind of waffle iron do you have? Mine died so I'm in the market for a new one. These are the ones I'm thinking of getting.

http://wize.com/waffle-makers/for/chef/12512

Any help you could give me would be awesome.

[aliya]

I love this recipe!I didn't have coconut milk on hand, I had coconut cream so I used that instead. I mixed a half a cup of coconut cream with a half cup of whole milk. They came out fluffy and light and the family loved them. Also, I didn't have vanilla extract so I used vanilla rum, and added about I teaspoon of cinnamon. Wonderful!!

[Andrea Nguyen]

Aliya -- OMG -- coconut cream. What a fabulous idea!!! Oye, you had nice waffles! Thanks for sharing your tips.

[Swan]

This is an awesome recipe. I will have to try this soon.

[trang tran]

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[Jason]

Andrea, thanks again for this. Though it had been about a year since I first tried this recipe, I made it again this morning and they were delicious! So thankful for your help!

[Le-Thanh]

Andrea,
My mother used to make them in the french style electric gauffrette maker which yielded waffles thinner than belgian waffles and thicker than pizzelles, and were more on the crunchier side than what the VN vendors are seling now. She used at least 3 kinds of flour (rice, wheat and I think a little of the glutinous flour too,) and she mixed in coconut milk, melted butter, and lime zest. They were the best I've ever tasted. Unfortunately, she was never able to recreate the recipe over here. Maybe you can do something with this info, as you are good with proportions and the science of cooking.

[Andrea Nguyen]

Le-Thanh, Oh the gauffrette makers are really what cooks use in Vietnam. I love the idea of mixing in the rice flour for crunch. FABULOUS! Thanks for the tip!!!

[Loan]

Hello Co Andrea,

I have been wanting to make the Vietnamese Waffles but I couldn't find the recipe until yestersday. I found a couple recipes but yours sounds right to me so I did it right away. It turned out very good. My daughters who are 2 year old and 1 year old love it. I saved one to toast it the next day and just like you said, it's crunchy and still delicious. Once a while my family take a trip to San Jose and that's the only time we get to smell the fragnance of the fresh waffles.
Thank you so much for sharing your recipe. I have a very easy recipe of Banh Tieu that I want to share with you but you probably already know all this. If you still need it, please let me know.

Loan

P.S. I google for recipes very often and saw your name many times but I always thought Andrea is a guy. I thought to myself...wow, this guy has a passion for cooking and he seems like a very nice guy (that was before you had your picture on your web. You're a nice "guy" because there was one time I emailed you a few questions about Goi Du Du Kho Bo Gan Chay and you replied right away.)

[Andrea Nguyen]

Hi Loan, thanks for the kind words. I love those waffles. They're so simple and scrumptious! And your kids love them too!

Do send me your recipe for banh tieu. I was just thinking of them the other day. All the best!