• Welcome to Viet World Kitchen where I explore the culinary traditions of Vietnam, the country where I was born. Join me to learn, create, and contribute -- whether you are Vietnamese or not!

    Andrea Nguyen
    Author & Teacher

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My Books

Awards

  • James Beard Foundation
    Award of Excellence

  • 2007 Finalist
    Best Asian Cookbook

    International Association of Culinary Professionals

    2007 Finalist Julia Child
    Best First Book

    2007 Finalist
    Best International Cookbook

July 03, 2009

Corn with Chile, Scallion, and Shrimp Recipe (Bap Xao)

Corn-with-chile-and-shrimp


Last year I had a freak accident while traveling in Southeast Asia. I fell and put a hairline crack in my front teeth. Ever since then, I’ve neither been able to gnaw on ribs nor bite into corn on the cob. My dentist warned me against it, lest I aggravate the injury. We’re heading into corn season as the weather heats up these days. I unfortunately have to pass on one of my favorite summer foods – grilled corn on the cob slathered with scallion oil and garnished with a sprinkling of salt. It’s a Vietnamese treat that I remember from childhood, and just because I can’t enjoy it doesn’t mean that you can’t either. Just make some scallion oil and grill the corn (boil it first) till the corn gets some charred parts.

I love corn and I was looking for -- and needed -- a corny change. Last month while dining at Street, Susan Feniger’s restaurant in Los Angeles, I noticed a side dish called “Vietnamese corn”.  Oh, I thought, Susan was offering Angelenos a version of a Vietnamese street treat that I’d enjoyed a few years ago in the Motherland. How clever.

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June 29, 2009

How Little Saigon is Like Real Saigon but Not

Little-Saigon-OC

Last weekend, Rory and I were down in Southern California visiting our families. After a big lunch at my parents’ house on Saturday, we headed up to the grand daddy of Little Saigons in Westminster. We went with my sisters Yenchi and Tasha (they went with me to Saigon last year), Yenchi’s daughter Paulina, and we met up with an old family friend, Loan, whose family were our next door neighbors when we lived in Saigon. Loan brought along her niece, 9-year-old Kelalani. I hadn’t seen Loan in years and Lanchi is heading off to start her freshman year at Yale in August, so we all figured it would be a nice reunion/send off to goof around in “Bolsa” – the Vietnamese-American insiders’ term for Little Saigon. The main drag is Bolsa Avenue, hence the nickname. Loan’s family still lives in Little Saigon and there won’t be anything like Little Saigon in New Haven for Paulina!

What was supposed to be a short walk around turned into 4 hours of aimless wandering, shopping, and eating. My day-to-day life is packed with overly productive to-do lists, but that unstructured afternoon was a welcomed reminder of the pleasures of doing little. It was a nice vacation of sorts. Certain situations felt just like being in Saigon itself while others awakened me to the realities of being in America. Here are a few things I observed:

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June 25, 2009

Banh Hoi with Grilled Beef Recipe

Banh_hoi-rasa-malaysia

I was prompted by a few recent emails asking about Vietnamese banh hoi fine rice noodles. For example, Perry in Seattle wanted to recreated a version of banh hoi from San Francisco's Slanted Door restaurant. Bee Yin Low of the lovely Rasa Malaysia site told me that the noodles are among her favorite Vietnamese foods. The other day, I responded to people's request for more information on banh hoi with the general low-down in Vietnamese Noodles 101: Banh Hoi Fine Rice Noodles.

And today, I've guest posted a recipe for banh hoi with grilled beef on the Rasa Malaysia site. The photo above is to whet your appetite. For the recipe, you'll have to visit Bee's site. Check it out and start noodling around with banh hoi.

June 22, 2009

Vietnamese Noodles 101: Banh Hoi Fine Rice Noodles

Banh hoi Vietnamese rice noodles package  

Bun round rice noodles come in various sizes but banh hoi rice noodles come in only one size – very thin. In fact, these delicate Vietnamese noodles are thinner and finer than Italian angel hair pasta. Banh hoi are instantly recognizable as the tiny rice noodles are cooked and presented as rectangular-shaped mats that resemble a thick later of gauzy white cheesecloth. Banh hoi are difficult to prepare and mostly purchased and used as a fresh noodle. Thus, they are pricey compared to other Vietnamese noodles and typically a Vietnamese special-event food (such as weddings and annual death anniversary celebrations). Everyone always grins extra big smiles when banh hoi are served because you know that you’re in for a treat.

I like to describe banh hoi as fine rice noodles so as to distinguish them from the larger bun rice noodles. The photo above shows one piece of the noodle mats compared to the entire mound of them in the package.

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June 19, 2009

From My Father: Wisdom and Wackiness

My father - February 2009

Throughout my life, my father has always been willing to dispense his views on what I ought to be doing at any given time. He’d check how many layers of clothing I had on before I left for elementary school each morning to make sure that I was sufficiently protected in the Southern California environment. If I was sick, he’d prescribe slipping a eucalyptus oil-soaked paper towel underneath all my clothes. “It’s more potent than Vick’s Vapor Rub!” he said. I experienced aromatherapy way before it was hip.

When we first came to the United States, I fortunately had an opportunity to spend a lot of quality time with my father. As the youngest child, I was his pal and we spent hours together exploring the aisles of the Akron (a precursor to Cost Plus), munching on croissants and baguette at local bakeries (some owned by Vietnamese émigrés), and sipping cognac and sampling obscure French wines from Trader Joe’s. He and I would tool around in our blue Mercury Comet to make our rounds to the local thrift shops. We’d check the inventory and my dad would inevitably say to me in Vietnamese, “I wouldn’t pay more than X for that!” Then, he’d go to work on the saleswomen, who mostly fell victim to his persistence and charm. Dad knew how to stretch a dollar.

Whenever I visit my folks nowadays, my dad is ready with his latest theories about food. The photo above is from a lunch we had at my parents’ home in February 2009. Dad is emphatically selling everyone on his latest method of building a Vietnamese rice noodle bowl. The main dish was cha ca Ha Noi, a northern Vietnamese preparation of catfish seasoned by turmeric, galangal, and dill that’s served with bun rice noodles and a dipping sauce of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom). We’d eaten that dish a zillion times before and my sisters Linh and Tasha and my husband Rory and I knew how to assemble the dish in our separate bowls. I don’t know how many bottles of wine had gone around the table but Dad insisted that his method – soak the cooked fish in the dipping sauce before adding it to rest of the ingredients – delivered a superior flavor punch.

Linh, Tasha, Rory, and I defended our throw-everything-into-the-bowl-all-once approach as being our favorite. But my father, who somehow got my mother’s support from the other end of the table, insisted that his was the ‘right’ method and ours was lacking. We verbally jousted for a while. Then he knew he had us when he said: “The cha ca tastes better with the wine if you soak the fish first.”

We each tried his method, and well, he was right.

Happy Father’s Day Bố Già*


Have some fatherly wisdom and/or wackiness to share? Don't hold back!

Notes:

  • * In Vietnamese, Bố Già literally means Old Daddy and figuratively means the Man in Charge.
  • Read my 2009 Mother's Day tribute in "My Mother's Kitchen Quirks". The first photo on that post is of Mom dishing out the cha ca fish that I refer to above.

June 17, 2009

Master Banh Mi Sandwich Recipe

Banh mi sandwich

I've posted several times about Vietnamese banh mi but realized that I'd never presented a full-fledged, master recipe,  nor have I provided some history about the popular Vietnamese snack.  First off, a bit about sandwiches themselves. Thank heavens for John Montagu (1718-1792), 4th Earl of Sandwich, who habitually sent for cold meat in between two slices of bread so that he wouldn't have to break away from the gambling tables to eat. Little did he know how he'd impact global eating practices, let alone that of a small country like Vietnam!

There is essentially one sandwich in Vietnamese cooking and it is quite a tour de force. It started out very simply, with baguette smeared with liver pate and that was it. That's how my mom knew it in the 1940s when she was growing up in Northern Vietnam. What we know today as banh mi is a light, crispy small baguette that is split and hollowed before it is invariably filled with homemade mayonnaise or butter (which I don't like), sliced chili pepper, cilantro leaves, cucumber, a tangy-sweet daikon and carrot pickle (do chua), and a drizzle of soy sauce. The variation comes in when you choose what protein component(s) will be center stage. The classic version, banh mi thit nguoi—referred to as the "special" (dac biet) at Vietnamese delis, includes a smearing of housemade liver pâté and thin slices of various Vietnamese cold cuts. Other filling options include, but are not limited to, roasted chicken, grilled pork, crunchy julienned pork skin (bì), Chinese cha siu pork, and tofu. This delicious, fanciful version was popularized by Southern Vietnamese, particularly those in Saigon, and is what we know abroad today and in most of Vietnam too.

In the early 1980s, these sandwiches occupied the food craze spotlight in the Vietnamese-American community. A sandwich war of sorts ensued in Little Saigon, California, where entrepreneurial deli owners posted banners advertising low prices ($1 or $1.25) and special offers like "Buy 2 Get 1 Free". Word spread about who had the best deal and best product. There were light-hearted squabbles over which deli should have your loyalty. Our family, like other folks who can't resist a good bargain, bought a dozen sandwiches at a time—veggies on the side so that the bread wouldn't get soggy on the way home. After eating and analyzing a fair number of so-so sandwiches (you eventually get what you pay for), we started making them ourselves—the genesis of this banh mi recipe.

Continue reading "Master Banh Mi Sandwich Recipe" »

June 15, 2009

How Vietnamese Rice Paper is Made

Now that you have a sense of how to buy rice paper and how to wrap rice paper rolls to create lovely summer rolls and cha gio imperial rolls, you may wonder if you should tackle making rice paper from scratch. It seems like an easy task as just a few simple ingredients -- rice, water, and salt are involved. So why not? Well, you may want to think again. I surely did when I first observed an artisanal banh trang producer in a small hamlet (it wasn't even an omelet!) outside of Phan Thiet (a city north of Saigon) in Vietnam.

She had been practicing her craft for decades and sitting in the same position for hours, day in and day out hurt, she told me. But, her livelihood and family depended on these skills, which she had honed to a seemingly effortless precision. Such level of culinary craftsmanship comes only from  having done something tens of thousands of times. (You have to cook 1,000 steaks to know how to do them just right!)

"Our rice paper is made by hand and are bigger than normal so we can sell them at a higher price than the factory-made ones," she told me. We ate some of the fresh, hot rice sheets and they were delectable. I could not bring any back to the U.S. with me and now regret it. Here is how this woman makes Vietnamese rice paper:

Rice grinding: Soaked raw rice is ground with water into slurry by this very simple machine. The trough at the bottom of the bucket is made of stone. The grinding mechanism, which the family had obtained just a few years before, spins very quickly, so much so that the walls are splattered by the rice and water mixture.

Ricegrinding1 Ricegrinding2  

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June 11, 2009

How to Wrap Rice Paper Rolls

Rice-paper-rolls-done

Two methods for wrapping rice paper rolls.
(Top) Closed-end rice paper rolls. (Bottom) Opened-end rice paper roll.

Rarely does a week go by when I don't use rice paper. Called bánh tráng, rice paper is among the main staples in the Vietnamese kitchen. Think of all the goi cuon rice paper rolls (a.k.a, summer rolls and salad rolls) and the sinfully delicious fried imperial rolls called cha gio that you've eaten. They're encased in translucent rice paper. If you're new to Vietnamese food, chances are that someone else pre-rolled the rice paper rolls for you. Ever thought of rolling your own? 

If you’ve never wrapped with Vietnamese rice paper, don’t be daunted. Wrapping rice paper rolls is like making a burrito and you don’t have to be perfect. Buy some good rice paper (see rice paper buying tips for guidance) and then review these helpful hints before diving in:

Have water handy. To make rice paper pliable and usable, just use water. I typically fill a wide shallow bowl partway with water; a baking dish may be substituted. The water temperature depends on the type of rice paper. In general, thinner rice paper requires cooler water. When making hand rolls at the table, set out one or two communal dipping bowls for guests. If the papers require hot water, consider using a portable electric burner. Warm it up in advance and boil the water on the stove first. Then pour the hot water into a wide shallow pan and set it on the electric burner.

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